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Macy's Garage, Ltd.

America's BEST Triumph Shop!




December 16, 2017
Mary's drum brake TR3 (1956) arrived here on a transporter from sunny Arizona this week.  She knew about our shop, but was reluctant to send her car across country, and opted to have it restored by a local firm who assured her that they could do the job.  Guess what?  The car ended up making the trip here anyway! 

We'll probably post more photos of this "restoration" as time goes along, but the down and dirty story is that after all the assurances that they knew what they were doing, Mary received a car that they couldn't make run.  They didn't do too good at making it pretty either!  We're still compiling a list, but after a quick walk around it's pretty obvious that these guys shouldn't be entrusted to restore ANY car, let alone a Triumph that they obviously knew nothing about.

Unfortunately, this is a familiar story that we see repeated over and over again.  Now it's true that repairing and restoring these cars isn't rocket science, and anyone who is a caring craftsman that will put forth the effort to research them thoroughly will be able to turn out an acceptable restoration.  But there are far too many shops out there who don't give a crap, or don't know quality when they see it.  Owners need to research, research, research too, and don't buy into slick assurances that anyone with a sign out front will be able to provide the quality that you are paying for.  Did I mention that we don't have a sign in front of our shop?  The TR folks know how to find us, and we are far too busy to be bothered by the multitudes who want a tour just because they like old cars!


December 8, 2017
Whenever a TR4-TR250 bonnet gets bumped, the natural downward roll that they have originally gets tucked under even more, and it pulls much of the metal behind down with it.  The marked area shown in the photo on the right is now very flat, and the solution for most body guys is to fill it up with bondo, as was done previously with this hood.

Now the bondo base does make the hood look somewhat smooth again, but the additional thickness means that in most cases, the studs to fasten the bonnet badge and the TRIUMPH letters will not reach completely through, and thus cannot be securely fastened to the hood.

The correct repair, performed by a talented metalworker using quality equipment, is to stretch the flattened metal back up into the space it needs to occupy, restoring the original shape and keeping the hood thin enough to securely attach the badge and letters.  We have both the required elements here, talented people and the best equipment.  Don't think that a cheap English Wheel from Harbor Freight is going to give a rank amateur the same results that a seasoned professional like Matt is going to achieve on good equipment, when it's more than likely that the hood in question will be destroyed by rookie mistakes and bad equipment.

Notice that our English wheel is a Covell Signature Series by Metal Ace.  Ron Covell is one of the world's best metalshapers, and he's also one of the best teachers that you can learn metalworking skills from.  We are happy to announce that Ron will be here at Macy's Garage in October of next year to give two workshops, Basic Steel on October 20 and Basic Aluminum on October 21.  Sign up now at www.covell.biz and plan to attend the workshop(s) to learn new skills, and visit Macy's Garage at the same time!


November 20, 2017

Stetson purchased his TR6 new in 1969, and wants it restored back to new condition in time for it's 50th Birthday next year.  When we first unloaded the car off of the trailer, it looked too nice to restore, but then we started looking a little closer and noticed some areas of his re-paint that weren't holding up too well.  Obviously, we needed to strip everything off to find out what was happening below the surface.

Once we got the car down to bare metal, we found plenty of previous work that needed to be re-done.  Just one example is the upper rear corner of the left (driver's side) rear fender, where a patch had been welded over a very rusty section, just something to keep the bondo from falling through the hole when it was slathered on.  We found it interesting that the "skilled professional" who made this repair was not capable of reproducing the body line in the fender, so he cut his patch out around the "thankfully" good body line.  What really hurts is that all of the old rust remained below, with plenty of holes for moisture to get in and become trapped between the new patch and the remains of the original fender!  There were more repairs of this type that we can count, and we'll have to cut away 100% of them and fix them correctly once and for all!

I received the following e-mail from Stetson over the weekend, and thought it would be appropriate to share along with these photos:

Mark:  I can't say how much I appreciate the combination of clearly written invoices and large number of good photos that follow each invoice.  I spend a lot of time going through the photos and being amazed by:

- the many hiding places for moisture and rust to collect

- the wide range of shabby repairs made by those who worked on the car in the past

- the damage caused by "park by Braille" drivers on my street in Alexandria, VA!

I read your website and what you say about correcting the errors made by others, but didn't think it would apply to my car.