Macy’s Garage
© 2018-2021 - Macy’s Garage, Ltd.

Blog

WHAT we’re doing, and HOW we’re doing it!

May 10, 2021

The large round bump for differential clearance will give this away as being a rear floor section, and the particulars are that this piece fits a TR3A after TS60000, or a TR3B. What you might not know is that although new reproductions are listed in some catalogs, they are not always easy to get. This isn’t normally a “high rust” area because water leaks have a tendency to sink to the lowest point (floor pans), but once in a great while we’ll find one like this car that has too many holes to repair. The solution to keep this project from stalling was to put our talented metal shop to work and make this floor section here. By adding our skills and experience to all of the specialized equipment in our shop, we were able to create a new rear floor in the same configuration as the original. We did have to make one small concession to originality, and that was that originals were made from a single piece of metal. It was necessary for us to break this into two sections so that we could reach far into the center and create the strengthening ribs, but no one who ever sees this car in the future, even if completely disassembled, will ever suspect that this isn’t a factory panel that has remained in excellent “as-new” condition. (Sharp eyes among you will probably notice that the short vertical panel shown here on the right will actually attach to the left edge of the center panel. Don’t worry, we got it right!)

May 3, 2021

Installing a new wiring harness in a fresh restoration should be a quick and simple matter of following the colors on the wires and matching them to what’s shown on the diagram, but nothing is ever as easy as you’d like it to be! Dave has done this countless times in the 11.5 years he’s been here, but it’s still one of those tasks where he knows to make himself comfortable, ‘cause it’s gonna take awhile! The new wiring harnesses are not complete, missing all of the instrument light wiring and sockets, and there are ground wires and jumper wires which have to be fabricated and installed to make everything work. Not to be forgotten is that Standard-Triumph did not re-draw their wiring diagrams when the wiper circuit was changed from a switched power on the TR2 to a switched ground that made a wiper “park” function possible for the TR3s, and that one confuses a lot of Triumph neophytes! It’s no wonder that the Mustang restorer or the local hot rod shop where some guys take their TR’s will want to install a “modern” universal type wiring harness in a Triumph, claiming that the Lucas stuff never worked right when it was new. We never have any problems with OEM style Lucas wiring in the cars that pass through here, so the only reason we can think of for the Lucas reputation is that some guys who were just like the modern nay-sayers had been fiddling with them “back in the day”!

April 26, 2021

This photo shows the inside of a TR6 distributor. This is the hidden area under the breaker plate, and it takes a little bit of distributor disassembly to see this. There are supposed to be two springs here, attached to two weights which swing out under centrifugal force to advance the ignition timing as engine RPM’s increase. Now as you might imagine with one missing spring, and the brown rust which prohibits free movement of the weights, the advance function of this distributor was not working as it should. The engine had been recently “rebuilt” by the local MG mechanic, and then brought to us when no one could manage to make the car run properly. It didn’t take us long to get to the bottom of the problem, and it makes us wonder what else was neglected and ignored during this supposed overhaul. No matter what the MG guy’s “specialty” is, failure to inspect or rebuild a distributor along with a full engine overhaul is one fine example of poor workmanship, be it an MG, a Triumph, or anything else.

April 19, 2021

For those of you who don’t know Mr. Richard Lentinello, please let me introduce you. Richard is the Editor and Publisher of the new CRANKSHAFT Magazine that I mentioned here back on March 22, 2021. More interesting to us Triumph guys is that he’s one of us! His Triumph collection consists of the RHD TR2 pictured with him in this photo, as well as a TR3A, a GT6, and two Spitfires, one of which was his own very first car! Richard is very well known throughout the entire classic car community, thanks to his 17 year stint as editor and executive editor at Hemmings. While there, Richard played a major roll in the launch of Hemmings Classic Car and Hemmings Sports & Exotic Car magazines, as well as adding interesting articles to the boring all classified format of hobby mainstay Hemmings Motor News. I dare say he has been to every major show in the USA multiple times, viewed and photographed more vintage cars than most of us can even imagine, and discussed their care, restoration, maintenance, and history with the owners and caretakers of all types of collector vehicles. He’s also visited most of the major restoration shops in the country, (including Macy’s Garage), so he’s well versed in what works and what does not. When Richard speaks, the collector car world listens! With that in mind, we are honored to announce that six of Richard’s past Hemmings articles on restoration are now available here on our website under the INFO button. Read, learn, and most of all ENJOY!

April 12, 2021

We’ve seen quite a number of TR’s here lately that had loose steering columns. Most of the owners claim to have never noticed, but to us it’s kinda hard to miss when the steering wheel and column act like they are about to drop out onto your lap! Most times, the slop can be traced to either the bushings inside of the column tube, or worn/missing felt at the column mounts. But then occasionally there will be cracked column mounts like this one, so it’s something to check anytime you’re working on a loose or wobbly column We’ve seen this enough times lately that it’s starting to look like a more common problem, and the only fix is to crawl up under the dash with your MIG welder and stitch it back together.

April 5, 2021

One place on a TR that you can guarantee will have rust is the area below the battery. On the TR2-3B it’s an actual box which sticks through the firewall, and with the TR4-6 it’s this flat shelf with 3 strengthening ribs. Replacement boxes are available for the sidescreen cars, but they take some “fitting” to make them work. With the later TR4-6 cars, it’s a different matter altogether. This battery shelf is part of the firewall, and replacements have never been available (to our knowledge). Fortunately, we have a very well equipped metal shop to fabricate pieces like this, and talented people who know how to use the equipment. It also helps that they make several of these every year, so it’s really a quick process to make the required part, complete with the factory style ribs. This will be an invisible repair when TIG welded into place, and look a whole lot better than a piece of flat metal or plywood that has been placed over the rust!
BLOG 2021-Q2
America’s BEST Triumph Shop
Macy’s Garage
© 2018-2021 - Macy’s Garage, Ltd.

Blog

WHAT we’re doing, and HOW we’re doing it!

May 10, 2021

The large round bump for differential clearance will give this away as being a rear floor section, and the particulars are that this piece fits a TR3A after TS60000, or a TR3B. What you might not know is that although new reproductions are listed in some catalogs, they are not always easy to get. This isn’t normally a “high rust” area because water leaks have a tendency to sink to the lowest point (floor pans), but once in a great while we’ll find one like this car that has too many holes to repair. The solution to keep this project from stalling was to put our talented metal shop to work and make this floor section here. By adding our skills and experience to all of the specialized equipment in our shop, we were able to create a new rear floor in the same configuration as the original. We did have to make one small concession to originality, and that was that originals were made from a single piece of metal. It was necessary for us to break this into two sections so that we could reach far into the center and create the strengthening ribs, but no one who ever sees this car in the future, even if completely disassembled, will ever suspect that this isn’t a factory panel that has remained in excellent “as-new” condition. (Sharp eyes among you will probably notice that the short vertical panel shown here on the right will actually attach to the left edge of the center panel. Don’t worry, we got it right!)

May 3, 2021

Installing a new wiring harness in a fresh restoration should be a quick and simple matter of following the colors on the wires and matching them to what’s shown on the diagram, but nothing is ever as easy as you’d like it to be! Dave has done this countless times in the 11.5 years he’s been here, but it’s still one of those tasks where he knows to make himself comfortable, ‘cause it’s gonna take awhile! The new wiring harnesses are not complete, missing all of the instrument light wiring and sockets, and there are ground wires and jumper wires which have to be fabricated and installed to make everything work. Not to be forgotten is that Standard-Triumph did not re-draw their wiring diagrams when the wiper circuit was changed from a switched power on the TR2 to a switched ground that made a wiper “park” function possible for the TR3s, and that one confuses a lot of Triumph neophytes! It’s no wonder that the Mustang restorer or the local hot rod shop where some guys take their TR’s will want to install a “modern” universal type wiring harness in a Triumph, claiming that the Lucas stuff never worked right when it was new. We never have any problems with OEM style Lucas wiring in the cars that pass through here, so the only reason we can think of for the Lucas reputation is that some guys who were just like the modern nay-sayers had been fiddling with them “back in the day”!

April 26, 2021

This photo shows the inside of a TR6 distributor. This is the hidden area under the breaker plate, and it takes a little bit of distributor disassembly to see this. There are supposed to be two springs here, attached to two weights which swing out under centrifugal force to advance the ignition timing as engine RPM’s increase. Now as you might imagine with one missing spring, and the brown rust which prohibits free movement of the weights, the advance function of this distributor was not working as it should. The engine had been recently “rebuilt” by the local MG mechanic, and then brought to us when no one could manage to make the car run properly. It didn’t take us long to get to the bottom of the problem, and it makes us wonder what else was neglected and ignored during this supposed overhaul. No matter what the MG guy’s “specialty” is, failure to inspect or rebuild a distributor along with a full engine overhaul is one fine example of poor workmanship, be it an MG, a Triumph, or anything else.

April 19, 2021

For those of you who don’t know Mr. Richard Lentinello, please let me introduce you. Richard is the Editor and Publisher of the new CRANKSHAFT Magazine that I mentioned here back on March 22, 2021. More interesting to us Triumph guys is that he’s one of us! His Triumph collection consists of the RHD TR2 pictured with him in this photo, as well as a TR3A, a GT6, and two Spitfires, one of which was his own very first car! Richard is very well known throughout the entire classic car community, thanks to his 17 year stint as editor and executive editor at Hemmings. While there, Richard played a major roll in the launch of Hemmings Classic Car and Hemmings Sports & Exotic Car magazines, as well as adding interesting articles to the boring all classified format of hobby mainstay Hemmings Motor News. I dare say he has been to every major show in the USA multiple times, viewed and photographed more vintage cars than most of us can even imagine, and discussed their care, restoration, maintenance, and history with the owners and caretakers of all types of collector vehicles. He’s also visited most of the major restoration shops in the country, (including Macy’s Garage), so he’s well versed in what works and what does not. When Richard speaks, the collector car world listens! With that in mind, we are honored to announce that six of Richard’s past Hemmings articles on restoration are now available here on our website under the INFO button. Read, learn, and most of all ENJOY!

April 12, 2021

We’ve seen quite a number of TR’s here lately that had loose steering columns. Most of the owners claim to have never noticed, but to us it’s kinda hard to miss when the steering wheel and column act like they are about to drop out onto your lap! Most times, the slop can be traced to either the bushings inside of the column tube, or worn/missing felt at the column mounts. But then occasionally there will be cracked column mounts like this one, so it’s something to check anytime you’re working on a loose or wobbly column We’ve seen this enough times lately that it’s starting to look like a more common problem, and the only fix is to crawl up under the dash with your MIG welder and stitch it back together.

April 5, 2021

One place on a TR that you can guarantee will have rust is the area below the battery. On the TR2-3B it’s an actual box which sticks through the firewall, and with the TR4-6 it’s this flat shelf with 3 strengthening ribs. Replacement boxes are available for the sidescreen cars, but they take some “fitting” to make them work. With the later TR4-6 cars, it’s a different matter altogether. This battery shelf is part of the firewall, and replacements have never been available (to our knowledge). Fortunately, we have a very well equipped metal shop to fabricate pieces like this, and talented people who know how to use the equipment. It also helps that they make several of these every year, so it’s really a quick process to make the required part, complete with the factory style ribs. This will be an invisible repair when TIG welded into place, and look a whole lot better than a piece of flat metal or plywood that has been placed over the rust!
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